Vietnam Travel – A path to somewhere…

October 18, 2010

It takes some getting to, but a bamboo-lined dirt road makes it worthwhile.

A long bridge across the Ma River is just one of the picturesque features on the trip to the Suoi Muong bamboo path

If it’s all about the journey and not the destination, there is a “journey to a journey” involving quite a few ups and downs, not to mention twists and turns, that awaits the nature lover in Vietnam’s northern region.

The destination is a path, 40 kilometers long, that winds its way through a dense bamboo grove in Thanh Hoa Province.

In order to reach the Suoi Muong bamboo path, there’s a long way to go, past high mountains and deep valleys. A motorbike is an indispensable accessory.

Let’s get going from Hanoi and head to Hoa Binh, where Muong Lat Street along the Lao border leads to the mountainous western part of Thanh Hoa.

The first village on the road is named Thanh Son, where backpackers can tuck in for the night in local homes after a simple supper.

As we go further, more villages appear, as do the first bamboos.

Here, the road is named Suoi Muong after a local stream.

Along the red-soil road, which gets narrower toward the end, are tall, dense bamboo grasses that cast their green shadows on the Ma River flowing alongside.

Then the bamboos disappear, and the Mau Village market comes into view, several minutes from the pier across the Ma River.

Stationed at the pier is a woman in her sixties. Her teeth are dyed in black, a beauty aid for Vietnamese women in the old times and a tradition to protect their teeth.

“I row until four in the afternoon, then go home to rest,” said the ferrywoman who has been doing this job nearly 20 years and knows everyone in the area.

A 40-km path that entertains with a never-ending play of light and shade and a concert of bird cries and rustling leaves is an unusual destination, but those who reach there aren’t complaining

 

GETTING THERE: From Hanoi take the Ho Chi Minh Road to Thanh Hoa, around 155 kilometers away. Trains and buses are also available.

There are close to 30 streams, big and small, in the area and they put in an appearance after every turn along Suoi Muong road that is 100 kilometers long. But not every stream has a boat to take you across. Sometimes, people have to wade into the water first and lead others waiting to take their bikes across.

And the adventure is only the beginning. Some parts of the road are piles of rock, some are slippery soil, some are in between the cliff where the bikes have half a meter width to drive on.

The bike driver needs to be firm and the pillion rider should be ready to jump off at all times to help push the motorbike.

It can be discouraging, but if you’re in a mood to take things on, the tough road is the perfect challenge.

The Ma River continues to flow alongside, playfully switching from the left to the right and vice versa. On some parts of the road, the river is so close you can lean over and wash your hands in the flowing waters.

It’s best to make this journey early May, when it’s not raining and the bamboos are in their post-spring prime.

November or December is also good as the monsoon has passed and the bamboos throw in a dash of yellow.

The journey is an absolute no-no during the first days of rainy season as the road gets very muddy, the rocks get very slippery and the streams get very fierce.

Every 10 or 15 kilometers on the road is a village where such necessities as instant noodles, eggs, soaps, cookies and sweets can be procured.

Most villages are home to ethnic minority groups who invariably bade visitors passing by their stilt houses to come in and rest, freshen up and even use their ovens to cook.

Not far from Chieng Nua, one of the villages, is a cemetery on a cliff that dates back to the 11th century. The place is also home to vestiges of the Dong Son Culture, a prehistoric Bronze Age in Vietnam, and temples worshiping heroes of the Lam Son revolution during the early 15th century against Chinese invaders.

The journey can take longer, but patience is rewarded when, almost unnoticed, the magnificent bamboo path is there in front, casting a mysterious aura and allure.

Long and slender, the leaves sparkle in the sun and make joyful rustling and creaking sounds as the breeze blows through them. The play of light and shade is soothing and exciting at the same time. Where does the path lead?

But that’s it. There is nowhere to go but where the path takes you. In fact, the path is “home”. You have arrived.

Source: Thanhnien


Cham people celebrate Kate festival in Ninh Thuan

October 13, 2010

Thousands of Cham people in the central province of Ninh Thuan on October 7 attended Kate festival, the biggest annual festival of Cham people who are Balamon followers, at Poklong Giarai tower.

Being a little different from the official Tet Vietnam or Vietnam Lunar New Year festival, the Cham New Year festival expresses the unique rituals and culture of this ethnic minority group. If you have a chance to attend this festival, you will surely enjoy the traditional and cultural activities that can only be seen at Cham people community once every year.

Ninh Thuan province has nearly 70,000 Cham people, including around 40,000 Balamon followers.

Poklong Giarai is a group of Cham temple towers which was built in honor of the legendary king Po Klaung Garai, who ruled Champa from c.1285 to 1307 A.D.

The towers were constructed during the early 14th century during the reign of King Jaya Simhavarman III, and are thus classified as belonging to the Pô Klông Garai or Late style of Cham architecture (14th-17th centuries).

The complex was built on the site of an earlier temple and originally comprised six towers: a main tower at the centre and five lesser towers, all facing eastward. However, the two towers in the south west and north east respectively have long since fallen into ruin. The main tower was dedicated to revered local King Pô Klông who, according to legend, won a contest with Prince Pô Đam to see who could construct a temple in the shortest time.

All four remaining towers were extensively renovated by Polish conservation agency PKZ in the period 1981-1990 and are now in the care of local experts. Particularly noteworthy are the central kalan, with its intricate decoration and elegant roof towers, and the mandapa, with its horse-saddle shaped roof. During numerous excavations at the site a number of gold and silver bowls have been found. Each year during the 8th and 9th lunar months (September-October) this temple complex is one of the most important venues for the ceremonies of the Kate (Chăm New Year) Festival.

Source: vietnamnet


Hue – The Imperial City

October 8, 2010
Still remaining its form of City under Middle Age and the constructions of monarchic, a invaluable museum of Vietnam, this is Imperial City – the last remaining section of 19th-century Hue, and it is now a modern experiment in recreating traditional Vietnam. The Imperial City was recognized as a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO on December 1993. Let’s take a trip through the most  important historical and cultural monument of Vietnam.

 

Hue - The Imperial City

 

Dominating the skyline is the 37m (120ft) high Cot Co or Flag Tower, first erected in 1809. Cot Co achieved international renown on the morning of 31 January 1968, when communist forces seized the Citadel and ran their yellow-starred banner up its tall mast.

The lower part of the gate is stone, while on top is the “Belvedere of the Five Phoenixes” where the emperor appeared on important occasions, and where the last emperor abdicated to Ho Chi Minh’s Revolutionary Government in 1945.

Just inside the gate is a lotus pond with a bridge once reserved for the emperor’s private use. Across the bridge is the Thai Hoa Palace used for official receptions and other important court ceremonies. The columns supporting the roof are lacquered and inlaid with gold.

Thai Hoa Palace

Behind the Thai Hoa Palace are a pair of smaller halls used by mandarins to prepare for court ceremonies. The halls form a courtyard, the fourth side of which was once a wall dividing the more public area of the citadel from the emperor’s private residence, the “Forbidden Purple City.” The name conjures up images of grand palaces like Beijing. Unfortunately, it takes quite a bit of imagination to picture the buildings that once occupied what is now a grassy expanse. What wasn’t destroyed by a fire in 1947 was bombed in the 1968 Tet Offensive. The picture at above left was taken from the upper-most level looking back at the Thai Hoa palace and the Flag tower.

Off to one side of the central axis of the forbidden city, about midway, is the Thai Binh Lau or Royal Library. This small building stands in a garden and is fronted by small pond mostly taken up by a mountain-island well-grown with moss and bonsai. You will find similar ponds, fountains or even large bowls of water in many structures all over Vietnam.

Although you must enter the citadel through the main gate, you can exit it at several other points. Between the Thai Hoa palace and the halls of the mandarins, a path leads to the Hien Nhon gate (left). Leaving by this gate is the shortest route to get from the forbidden city to the museum at Long An palace. Along the path are a couple of buildings worth a look.

A visit to Hue might be considered incomplete without a boat trip on the outstandingly lovely Perfume River. Boats are readily available for hire, either for an exploratory trip in the vicinity of Hue, or for a longer journey upstream to the tombs of Minh Mang and Gia Long.

Perfume River

It’s hard to explain the uncanny beauty of the river, though doubtless the irridescent, aquamarine waters, together with the profusion of colourful craft and boat women sporting non la–the ubiquitous cream-coloured conical hat of Vietnam–all contribute to the effect. On a clear, sunny day the Perfume River can indeed be magical.

From your Hue hotel, you can look around and visit the remained architecture from Nguyen Dynasty or hop on a boat on Perfume river to enjoy the traditional food of Hue as well as the beautiful scene of the city along the river banks.


Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon

August 24, 2010

The city center is situated on the banks of the Saigon River, 60 kilometers (37 mi) from the South China Sea and 1,760 kilometers (1,094 mi) south of Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam.

The metropolitan area, which consists of the Hồ Chí Minh City metropolitan area, Thủ Dầu Một, Dĩ An, Biên Hòa and surrounding towns, is populated by more than 9 million people, making it the most populous metropolitan area in Vietnam and the countries of the former French Indochina.

So me and Natalie arrived late morning in Saigon – we hadn’t booked a hotel so we wandered down to the main backpacker area where we got accosted by a random french/vietnamese lady desperate to get us to stay at her friends hotel. We went and had a look and turned it down – cue here following us and shouting at us for the next 10 minutes. We wandered down a little alley off the main road and found a nice little guest house… and went for an explore. Saigon is crazy busy. 8 million people and 3 MILLION motorbikes. It just doesn’t stop.

We were staying in the main backpacker area – near loads of bars, Boom boom bars (with prozzies sat outside), shops, places selling knock off dvds for 30p, everything was open so late – I felt really safe here.

Things I will remember about Saigon:

* Loi – a lovely lady selling knock off books who took a shine to us – we saw her most nights and she’d come and sit for a chat..
* The kids up at 3am selling cigarettes out of boxes outside the bars
* cockroaches and BIG rats
*Buying popcorn from an elderly lady on a street corner…she beckoned for me to lean forward as if she wanted to tell me something and instead put her hand down my top and gave my boob a big squeeze then started giggling and gave me the thumbs up!! I couldn’t be angry at her – she was 80, had no teeth and reminded me of my gran when sh is in a cheeky mood…
* The bikes – eveeeeeeeeeeeeeerywhere

* The lady who did my laundry breaking 2 of my bras – GRRRR. HOw to you manage to bend the underwire love?!?! And they don’t do my size out here (Well ‘only in maternity’ I was told the other day)
* The war remnants museum. Truely horrific and graphic images. AMazing how cruel and evil human beings can be.
* Drinking buckets with Natalie in the street, watching the world go by…
* Squid man!! Nothing I feel like more in an evening than some dried squid. Mmm.
* Huge thunder storm causing a nice old power to the restaurant I was in – was fuuuun!!

Natalie left me (booo) to go to Bangkok so I had a day to myself – had a good old wander around town. Really liked Saigon, but my nerves felt shot to pieces near the end – so many bikes – too little pavement!!

(Source: http://www.travelblog.org)


Huong Pagoda Festival

March 15, 2009

Over 10,000 foreign tourists have flocked to the Huong (Perfume) Pagoda Festival in My Duc district, northern Ha Tay province, since it opened on Feb. 3, the sixth day of the lunar New Year.

The figure brought the total number of visitors to this year’s festival to nearly 300,000, around 23,000 more than last year, said the provincial Tourism Department on Mar. 7.

Visitors to the festival, which lasts for three months, enjoy the beauty of the Huong Son limestone mountains at a time when apricot trees are in bloom and pay tribute to Buddha, specifically to Avalokitasvara, one of Buddha’s disciples.

Legend has it that the festival is held to worship a princess named Dieu Thien who incarnated Avalokitasvara and attained enlightenment there. As the princess was born on the 19th day of the second lunar month, that date is now observed by all Vietnamese Buddhists as a saint day. The shrine in which she practised her religion was discovered in the 15th century by three monks.

However, it was not until 1687 when the Superior Bonze Tran Dao Vien Quang came to the place, and Huong Son (Perfume Mountain) was transformed into a major Buddhist sanctuary and the greatest place of worship for Buddhists in Vietnam.

The pilgrimage to Huong Son dwindled to a trickle during the war years and the temples and shrines were left vacant. In 1958, after the restoration of peace in North Vietnam, the Government and President Ho Chi Minh personally gave instructions for the repair of the pagodas and temples and the restoration of the festival.


Sam Son beach

March 7, 2009

Sam Son beach, Thanh Hoa

Sam Son is only two and a half hour drive from Hanoi on the way to the South. The beach is exceptional with its natural beauty and unspoiled charm.

Sam Son Beach is 16 km from the city of Thanh Hoa. This is a wonderful seaside resort which the French began exploiting in 1906. It soon became a famous spot of the then-Indochine. A number of decades ago, many holiday villas were sonstructed here. Sam Son has a lot of beauty spot such as : the “Trong Mai” Mountain, the “Doc Cuoc” Temple, and “Co Tien” Moutain…

Ethnic data: Viet/Kinh, Dao, Hmong, Lao, Lu, Muong, Red Thai, Thai, Tho.
Districts/wards: Bim Son, Ba Thuoc, Cam Thuy, Dong Son, Ha Trung, Hau Loc, Hoang Hoa, Lang Chanh, Muong Lat, Nga Son, Ngoc Lac, Nhu Thanh, Nhu Xuan, Nong Cong, Quan Hoa, Quan Son, Quang Xuong, Sam Son, Thach Thanh, Thieu Hoa, Tho Xuan, Thuong Xuan, Tinh Gia, Trieu Son, Vinh Loc, Yen Dinh.

Description:
Thanh Hoa is located at the head of the narrow waste that connects with the \’head\’ of northern VirtNam. It is bordered on the north by Son La, Hoa Binh and Ninh Binh; on the south by Nghe An; on the east by the coast of the South China Sea; on the west by the Laos border.

Economy:
Forestry, marine resources and minerals.

Natural beauty sights:
Sam Son Resort with wide, smooth beaches lapped by emerald waters (2), and a view of the Truong Le Mountain.

Markets:
Nga Son Mat Market, Thanh Hoa; Flower Garden Market, Le Van Phuong Street, Lam Son, Thanh Hoa

Transport:
Thanh Hoa is 153 kilometres south of Ha Noi; 139 kilometres north of Vinh; 502 kilometres north of Hue; 16 kilometres west of Sam Son Beach. Thanh Hoa is serviced by rail and road.

Rail:
Thanh Hoa is a scheduled stop for Express Trains.

Car/Bus
Services from Ha Noi’s Southern Bus Station are scheduled every four hours en route to Ninh Binh, Vinh and other destinations on National Highway 1


Visiting Vietnam is an eye-opening experience

September 9, 2008

Written by Lewis Kalmbach

People always contrast north Louisiana and south Louisiana as opposites. The same can be said for Vietnam. In the north, I found Hanoi (perched on the banks of the Red River!) to be a bit cold and suspicious, but in Saigon, I was received differently.

The city of Saigon now is called Ho Chi Minh City, or HCMC, after the beloved leader of “the people.” While the name is used interchangeably, the historic downtown area, where most tourists and businessmen stay, is still called Saigon.

Cu Chi tunnel
Lewis Kalmbach descends into one of the tunnels at Cu Chi outside Saigon. Note the tunnel’s width
For Asia, Saigon is a relatively young city founded only in the mid-18th century as a Chinese port. Situated on the Saigon River, it became a secure and logical trading post for goods shipped from India and China on their way to Europe. Americans, however, know it best for playing a major role in the Vietnam War as the stronghold of the South.

After the war, Saigon fell into despair. In the early 1990s, western investors flocked to the city but pulled out a few years later due bureaucratic bullying. Today, the Asian powerhouse economies of China and Korea are making for a brighter future in Saigon.

The tree-lined Don Khoi is the Rodeo Drive of Saigon and will most likely be near your hotel. Here you’ll find some of the best shopping, dining and nightlife in Asia. Make time for an ice cream break here. I have never seen such clever creations made from cones, sprinkles and exotic flavors of ice cream and sorbets. Plan to spend a whopping 75 cents.

The museums were quite interesting with much memorabilia from the war. More remarkable, though, was the Reunification Palace. Designed as the home for former president Ngo Dinh Diem, the U.S.-backed leader of Vietnam until his untimely assassination — this building is symbolic for its role in the fall of Saigon. It was here the tanks of the North Vietnamese breached the gates and hung their victory flag from the balcony.

The best part about this building is the architecture. A fan of the mid-century style, this iconic ’60s monstrosity was virtually left untouched inside and out. What I mean to say is all of the furniture and equipment still is there just beyond the velvet ropes. It was like being at Graceland with the outlandish furniture and fabrics of the day. One easily can imagine heads of state (and Dean Martin) gathering for cocktails in the swanky parlors and billiard room. The map room was massive and had a Dr. Strangelove aura about it.

Forty miles outside of HCMC, I found one of the most indelible experiences on my adventure. The Cu Chi Tunnels lie at the end of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and served as the base for attacking Saigon. It was here the U.S. carpet-bombed the region, which forced the residents to literally go underground. A vast network of narrow tunnels stretched as far as Cambodia and featured meeting rooms, kitchens and triage units.

The guided tour starts with a campy war-era propaganda film that references us as “those red-hot American devils.” Next there are simulations of gory booby traps and guerrilla snares that are as gruesome as any Wes Craven horror flick. Grab a real AK-47 at the shooting range where for $1 a bullet you can play soldier. Finally, at one of the tunnels, tourists are encouraged to crawl through these very claustrophobic passages to gain appreciation for the ingenuity of these clever people. After emerging from these dark, dank and earthy tunnels, my guide kicked a few leaves around only to expose three very large scorpions.

I must confess I have newfound respect for our brave men and women who had to serve in the Vietnam War. Once on this foreign turf, I could see how we lost. We were simply not prepared for the cunning of the Vietnamese and their perilous terrain. Can the same be said for Iraq? I hope not.

TRAVEL TIP
When visiting Southeast Asia, only book your initial round-trip flight from the U.S. Once in your gateway city, there are many more flight options at cheaper prices than can be bought in advance from the States. Also, consider Manila, Philippines, as your gateway. There are three nonstops daily from the West Coast. The national carrier, Philippine Airlines, was less than half the price of flying directly to Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City. While the service is not as stellar as the legendary Thai Airways or even Cathay Pacific, it still was better than most U.S. carriers, especially in business class. My round-trip business class was only $1,900! Check philippineairlines.com for special deals.

Well, that wraps up Southeast Asia. While I did most of my site-seeing in the big cities, I would revisit all of these countries to explore the coastlines and backwoods. Thank you for following these top-of-mind ramblings. I hope I provided some new insight into this rich region and that you will start planing your own adventure today.

Safe travels.

Source: www.shreveporttimes.com


Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.